Working Border Collies and Jacob Sheep
 

Breeding Plans

Bred for Instinct ~ Health ~ Brains ~ Personality ~ Versatility

All dogs are OFA Hips & Elbows ~ Eye Cerfed ~ DNA CEA/CH Normal ~ ABCA registered

We compete in Herding ~ Agility ~ Rally O' ~ Obedience

Memberships in ~ American Border Collie Association ~ Grand Forks Kennel Club ~ Breeder of Merit in AKC

Our future breeding plans will either be Lark or Dare in 5-6 years.

They will get trained up in Rally, Agility and Stockdog trials. They also need their OFA Hips, Elbows and Shoulders cleared before we narrow down which of the 2 girls will carry on our genetics. We won't start looking for the stud dog for their only breeding for another 2-3 years. So check back to see how the girls are doing.

 

Imp. Jamie x Whim ~ 5/7/2018

 

Eclps Whim RN

X

Imp. Jamie owned by Mike Davis of Belle Fourche, SD

 

Eclps Lark - staying here

Eclps Diamond - sold

EclpsHerdNEwe - sold

ChasEliteEclps - Sold

Eclps Dare - staying here

 

Danger x Annie ~ 9/13/2011


HTCH ADCH SR Code Red "Danger" AX OAJ MAD TM-B GM SAM RM HTDIIIs HTADIIIs HRDIIIs RLFIIIs:


X


V Eclps Ann RE NAC HTADIs TN-N (NADAC NJC 10/30, TN-O 10/30)


Eclps Wish (m) – sold
MACH Eclps Vision Quest MXG MJG MFS TQX (m) – sold
Eclps Whim RN (f) - staying here
Eclps Hope (f) - staying here for Danika
Eclps Mirage (f) - staying here
Eclps Dream (f) – staying here
Eclps Illusion (f) - sold
Eclps Chimera (f) - sold

**All puppies spoken for as of right now

 

Shock x Tara ~ 10/10/2009

Fox Hat Shock CGC RE HTADIIs HTADIIIs

X

V Rising Sun Tara CGC PT RE NAJ HTADIs HTADIIId


Eclps Holly G
Eclps Eve
Eclps Merry
Eclps Chris
Eclps Duke

**All puppies sold

 

Shock x Tara ~ 5/28/2007

Fox Hat Shock CGC RE HTADIIs HTADIIIs

X

V Rising Sun Tara CGC PT RE NAJ HTADIs HTADIIId


V Eclps Ace RE HTADIs NJC NAJ CD
Eclps Aiden
Eclps Aron JHD RE
Eclps Aya
V Eclps Ann RE HTADIs TN-N NAC
Eclps Abby
Eclps Absolute OA AXJ

**All puppies sold

 

Our Breeding Philosophy


*This is our philosophy and was written by Tashia Lund* The Border Collie was bred to herd and in that aspect this breed is not for everyone. They have been bred for intelligence, working ability, eye, motivation, and quick reactions. This makes living with most Border Collies a challenge for the family. The Border Collie should be bred first and foremost as working dogs (instinct) taking into consideration structural soundness, genetic health, workmanship, personality, and pedigree. All of these aspects have created the dogs we see today in the working lines. But those same qualities make living with them challenging for the unaware owner. The Instinct can take the form of car, bike, or moving object chasing. This can be deadly at worst or a nuisance at best. If this is channeled than the dog becomes manageable. The more intense the instinct is in the breeding the better chance of having more instinct in the puppies. The other problem with this is kids have a tendency to run erratically, scream, make sudden stops and starts, and just plain act crazy. If a Border Collie is not socialized to these crazy things the instinct can kick in and the children may be stopped by a grip (bite) on the leg, pant leg or butt. This could mean death for that dog, all because the dog was following its instinct. The Border Collie has to be well socialized to children to live with them. Both have to be taught to respect the other. On the other side, the instinct is what makes this breed so special. To watch a Border Collie working livestock can bring tears to one’s eyes. This is the best partnership one can have with a dog – doing what it was bred for. Structural Soundness is very important. Healthy dogs live long, pain free lives. The Border Collie should have minimal lift of the feet and have an athletic appearance. This means not overweight. The Border Collie is in general a well-balanced, medium-sized dog that should display grace and agility with equal measures of substance and stamina. This means this breed is very active and needs a job to do; if living in a pet home that would be agility, rally obedience, obedience, tracking, hiking, biking etc. If living in a breeder’s home it should be working livestock of some kind and some breeders do all of the above. Only structurally sound dogs should be bred. Likewise, genetic health is also very important. Our wonderful breed is prone to some genetic diseases. A breeder should be checking hips and breeding from the best they have. In addition, most breeders will also check elbows too. The Eyes should be cerfed yearly for eye diseases at the least and DNA Collie Eye Anomaly and Choroidal Hypoplasia tested. The breeder should be using the best dogs to breed to the best dogs. The term workmanship, in my opinion, refers to the attitude the dog brings to its job. A Border Collie should be an intense worker, which means they do not give up easily and walk away. The breed has been bred to work independently from its shepherd and bring the livestock in. If the dog gives up and quits than the job is not done. Good workers need to be bred. The personality of the Border Collie can lead to quite a bit of discussion. Most Border Collies are reserved with strangers. This was part of the breed. One did not want to send the dog out to bring in the livestock and have it see someone, stop and greet the person! The dog was to keep to its self and work the livestock with its shepherd. Other Border Collies make awesome herding dogs, have the great workmanship and still love people. Reserved is fine, but for a pet environment this can be a challenge. The dogs need to be well socialized, taken to puppy kindergarten and beginner obedience at the least and brought up as a part of the family activities such as going to the park, camping, or others. Last but not least is the pedigree. The pedigree is the family tree of the breed. It lets a breeder know if the cross will work. Most breeders take this into consideration after all the other aspects. One wants to breed working to working, but take into consideration all the other parts of the dog puzzle. The pedigree gives us the history of the dog. It lets us know what our chances of getting what we want out of the cross could be. The Border Collie is a wonderful breed for the right home. It should be bred from the best of the best taking into consideration instinct, structural soundness, genetic health, workmanship, personality and pedigree. This is the only way to preserve this wonderful breed. But these same qualities make living with a Border Collie a challenge. It needs to be kept active and given a job to do.

How we raise our puppies.

Our puppies are born in our closet right by our bed, so I can keep an eye on them while they are in there. I am present at the birth and right after their birth I weigh, record sex, and markings to keep everyone separate. The puppies are handled multiple times a day and placed on their backs and sides. We implement the Early Neurological Stimulation Methods to insure that our puppies reach the best of their ability from the start. In addition, we handle their feet and mouths to ensure a well handled puppy. Mom is allowed full access whenever she wants to be there. The puppies are weighed and nails clipped weekly. At two weeks the puppies eyes start to open. At three to four weeks I start to offer very watery puppy food to them twice a day. They are also moved into our kitchen so they can have more room to run and be socialized to the activities of a home. By this time they are waddling around and moving. Mom is still feeding them regularly and she is allowed to. During this time the puppies ears start to open. By this time we are also starting to follow the Rule of Sevens by Pat Hastings. At four weeks the puppies are dewormed. At five weeks old they are starting to understand to go potty on the pine bedding and are getting three meals of soggy puppy food. At this time, people can come to visit and they are handled by strangers (clean), while still being handled by us constantly. Also at five weeks we have to change the gates at the doors in the kitchen to a real baby gate plus x-pen on one side – since some are usually escaping our kitchen. The radio is turned on so they are getting used to different sounds. Food pans are dropped to expose them to sudden loud noises. The first time outside is usually during this week and they have a blast. At six weeks the puppies are vaccinated, microchipped and dewormed. I am also bringing them to the Kennel Club to have people (clean) handle them, but they are only allowed to play with our dogs. At home they are being fed three meals a day of puppy food only slightly damp and mom is usually really starting to wean them. They have lots of toys to play with in the run and they are really starting to only go to the bathroom in the pine bedding. By seven weeks the puppies are really on the go. They are crated during different times in the day, especially while I feed the larger dogs. They are outside also multiple times in a day to play and run (if the temperature is warm enough). They are eating three meals a day of puppy food. The puppies also can play with the larger dogs (if the larger dogs feel like it) and mom is usually only feeding them once or twice a day. In addition, the puppies are starting leash training and have been on multiple car rides. During this week the puppies are eye cerfed by Veterinarian Ophthalmologists. During this time the puppies are kenneled twice a day for me to bleach the kitchen floor to make sure they are always on a clean surface. We send our puppies home at 8 weeks. We feel they should have at least 8 weeks with their litter and mom to attain all that wonderful socialization. Our puppies will leave our house with: Buyer's contract, Puppy's Eye Cerf certificate, copy of parent's health certificates (hips, elbows, Eye cerfs, DNA CEA/CH), pedigree (for reference), Health Certificate issued by our Veterinarian (if flying or crossing the border), their first shots (Distemper / Adenovirus / Parovirus / Parainfluenza / Coronavirus) at 6 weeks, dewormed at 4, 6 & 8 weeks, AVID Euro Microchip, socialization records, health records, pictures of parents, enough food to last a couple of days, a toy used by the whole litter, and last an information packet for training and answering questions. We are also available to answer any questions at any time. The puppies are on the following vaccine schedule. Vaccinations at: 6, 9, 12 & 15 weeks (combo vaccine) and rabies vaccine. They are also dewormed at: 4, 6, and need to be dewormed at 8 weeks. The puppies are weighed weekly to check their progress.


THE RULE OF SEVENS ... TIPS ON PUPPY SOCIALIZATION
Pat Hastings, AKC judge and author of The Puppy Puzzle offers these hints for socializing very young puppies.
By the time a puppy is 7 weeks old it should have: Been on 7 different surfaces, such as: carpet, concrete, wood, vinyl, grass, dirt, gravel, wood chips, newspaper, etc. Played with 7 different types of objects, such as: big balls, small balls, soft fabric toys, fuzzy balls, squeaky toys, metal items, wooden items, paper/cardboard items, milk/soda jugs, etc. Been in 7 different locations, including: front yard, backyard, basement, kitchen, car, garage, laundry room, bathroom, crate, kennel, etc. Been exposed to 7 challenges, such as: climbed a box, climbed off a box, gone through a tunnel, climbed up steps, climbed down steps, climbed over obstacles, played hide and seek, gone in and out of a doorway with a step, etc. Eaten from 7 different containers: metal, plastic, cardboard, paper, china, pie plate, frying pan, etc. Eaten in 7 different locations: crate, yard, kitchen, basement, laundry room, bedroom, x-pen, etc. Met and played with 7 new people, including children and the elderly. Source: http://www.norfolkterrier.org/articles_p-s/puppysocialization01.html